Day trips from Crete to Santorini – Yay or Nay?

Being a member on so many FB groups dedicated to Crete and Greek islands, there is no day without someone (or many) asking if day trip from Crete to Santorini is worth it. I will try to detail as much as possible, based on the feedback and experience of several people I talked to that did it. 

Now, if you ask me, I would say it’s not worth it. And I have a valid reason for that: there are so many beautiful and unique places to see in Crete (I know people that live there for years and still didn’t manage to see all of them). Also, I like to enjoy the place, not just a teaser 😊. I know, I am biased, as I have the option to go to Santorini in a different vacation (even direct flights in the summer months). But for those that cannot afford to go to Santorini separately (plane tickets and accommodation can be expensive) or they are from a very distant part of the world and can only visit Greece only every 5-10 years or maybe once in a lifetime, asking about it and embarking on the trip is a valid reason.

Santorini is probably the most known place in Greece, after the Acropolis. I mean, on every leaflet or ad from a tour operator there is ALWAYS a photo of its white houses and blue domes, the stone paved streets and of course the caldera view. 

I mean...
I mean…

It is a volcanic island and it’s unique shape is the result of a massive eruption that happened 3600 years ago, at the height of the Minoan Civilization. The Minoan city of Akrotiri was fully destroyed and covered in ash. According to scientists, the powerful earthquake was felt all over Crete, the sky was covered in volcanic ash and pumice, the air was filled with toxic gases and tsunamis up to 150 m hit the northern coast of Crete (destroying the city of Amnissos, for example) and up to 9m in the eastern part (Palaiokastro). The caldera is the proof of how powerful the eruption was, as it literally split the island. 

My favourite view when leaving Crete
My favourite view when leaving Crete

Today, Santorini is probably the most visited Greek island. Its mild climate makes it a perfect getaway for spring and autumn, in the summer you can barely walk on the streets and it is even visited in the winter, by those that just want to enjoy its beauty.

Before I start talking about the day trip, with its pros and cons, here are some good to know aspects about Santorini:

· It is part of the Cyclades islands (Κυκλάδες in Greek) and the South Aegean administrative region. There are around 220 islands in this group, all forming a circular shape (κύκλος in Greek) around the sacred island of Delos (the birthplace of the ancient Greek god of the sun, Apollo)

· Is also named Thira, after the ancient city on the east coast.

· It’s capital city and the biggest one is Fira (or Thira), located on the caldera cliffs

· It has an international airport (IATA: JTR, ICAO: LGSR) that operates all year round flights to Athens and Thessaloniki (Aegean Airlines) and seasonal flights from Europe and Middle-East

· It has two main ports: Old Port, where cruise ships anchor and New Port, where regular ferries disembark. New Port or Athinios is the best survival guide you can have during a vacation

Yup, this is the new port on a normal summer day
Yup, this is the new port on a normal summer day

· During the summer season it is a main stop for cruise ships. When 500 people disembark at every 30 mins, it’s like an ant farm there 

· It can be reached by ferry from Piraeus port (approx. 5hrs)

· It is an important hub for ferry connections to other islands in the Cyclades: Paros, Naxos, Amorgos, Ios, Mykonos, etc, hence used as a main base for island hopping. 

· It has public transportation (buses) connecting main tourist points. But all of them depart and end at Fira terminal. For example, if you stay in Kamari, from the airport take first the bus to Fira and then from Fira to Kamari, although the latter is just a few kms south of the airport 😊

· Around 25 taxis serve the entire island, so it can be very difficult to find one in peak season

· Best way to explore the island is by scooter or a very small car (like a Smart or a Toyota Aygo, for example). The main reason is the very narrow streets and very few parking places available

· If you want beaches and swimming, Santorini is not the best option, as it has very few (I think I counted less than 20). Most of them are in the south and east. There are no beaches on the caldera side. With massive tourism and only 20 beaches, some of them very small, you can imagine how crowded they are.

· You can find black sand beaches – Perissa, Kamari; red sand beach – Paralia Kokkini, close to Akrotiri. No beaches with golden sand

· The island of Thirasia has hot springs (common find in volcanic areas) and there are daily cruises in the caldera with swim stops.

· It is an island with little vegetation, there are no rivers. It can also be very windy, especially in Meltemi season (May-August)

· Elevated terrain, many stairs, hills and volcanic craters, not suitable for people with mobility conditions

· Tap water is not drinkable, as the island relies on desalinated sea water to meet the increasing demand (as a result of tourism)

· Oia (pronounced Ía) is literally overcrowded at sunset, as tourists flock here to see it.

· Accommodation can be found on both sides. In Fira, Firostefani, Imerovigli and Oia (with caldera view) you might have to sell a kidney for a 4 nights stay, meanwhile in Perissa and Kamari the prices are more decent

· Fira can be reached by cable car. The distance from the port is either done by boat or by mules/donkeys. For the love of God, please DO NOT ride a mule/donkey!!! They are exploited, abused and neglected, not given enough water or food to avoid the mess and smells in the scorching heat (you know the natural process of any living creature that has kidneys and digestive system).


About the day trip from Crete:

· Departure is only from Rethymno and Heraklion ports. There are some departures from Agios Nikolaos as well, but it depends on the demand. 

· There are daily departures from Heraklion and every 3 days from Rethymno.

· You can go in DIY mode, but consider that car rental is a must. Ferry ticket is around 90 euros/one way for an adult. 

· There are no direct flights from Crete to Santorini! Only way to go by plane is to change in Athens or Thessaloniki. As I usually book a window seat on the left side of the plane when I go to Heraklion, I take pictures of Santorini from above. The time between passing over Santorini and touchdown at Heraklion airport is around 18 minutes (I also like to record the landing). This means that a direct flight is not doable, at least not with an Airbus or a Boeing. 18 minutes mean ascending and immediately descending, without reaching cruise altitude, which is not fuel and cost-effective. Now, if you won the lottery before coming to Crete, you can rent a private jet. There are some options at Heraklion airport 😊

· Not all tourist agencies from Crete have it in their portfolio. 

· Some local agencies have the 2 days option – Cretan Odyssey, for example

· Expect to pay between 150-200 euros/per adult. Children have a discount.

· It is subject to weather conditions and it can be cancelled without prior notice, if the sea is rough or the wind speed is too high for a safe journey. I received this trip as a b-day gift last year, but it was cancelled in the morning, when we arrived at the port. We got a full refund.

· The ferry journey is approx. 2-3hrs/one way, depending on the ferry type

· Important: Not all agencies provide hotel pick-up and transfer to the port! You have to get there on your own. This is why most agencies from Chania and western villages (Agia Marina, Platanias, etc) DO NOT sell this trip. It is a 90 mins bus ride from Chania to Rethymno, and if the ferry leaves at 7 am, no chance to catch it without a rented car, as the first bus from Chania to Rethymno leaves at 6 am. Of course, there is the taxi/private transfer option, but those are expensive.

· If pick-up is included, expect to wake up at 4-5 am in the morning. If you stay in Agios Nikolaos and need to arrive at Heraklion port by 7 am, your pick-up time will be around 5:30 am. BTW, if you forget to wake up, don’t hear the alarm, etc, the bus will NOT wait for you. The ferry leaves at its scheduled time.

· Ferries depart at 8am from the Cretan ports, you have to be there 1h earlier to exchange your voucher at the company’s ticket office. Also, they don’t care if boarding is not completed. You are not there on time, it leaves without you.

· The full duration of the trip is between 10-12hrs

· Have some snacks with you, water, wear comfortable shoes, hat and sunscreen


· Schedule:

o Pick-up from hotel (if available) to Rethymno or Heraklion Port. 

o 2.5-3hrs by ferry

o Upon arrival in Santorini, you will be transferred to a bus and head to Oia.

o 2hrs of free time in Oia

Oia at sunset
Oia at sunset

o 20 mins drive to the capital city, Fira, with 1.5-2hrs of free time, depending how late the tourists were at the meeting point in Oia. During this slot, if you wish, you can take a small cruise in the caldera instead of strolling around the city.

Fira
Fira

o Head back to the port, take the 5pm ferry back to Crete, again 2.5-3hrs. arrive 7.30-8pm in Heraklion or Rethymno

o Depending where your hotel is, you might arrive back around 9-10pm


Pros:

· You can visit another jewel of the Aegean in just one day

· You don’t have to worry about car rental, parking, driving, etc.

· The tour guide will provide information about the island, its history, culture, etc

· Buses are comfortable, with AC

Cons:

· Most people found it to be exhausting

· The schedule is kind of “on the run”

· It is expensive. I wouldn’t pay 200 euros for only 4hrs here, when I found accommodation for 7 nights, in shoulder season, in Oia, at the same price.

· During July and August, when Santorini is overcrowded (remember what I said about cruise ships), you can barely find an empty seat at a taverna, especially in Oia and Fira. And I heard people saying that they ordered, but their food arrived 10 mins before pick-up. No time to eat, literally. Also, someone was saying that when you order, you can also ask for the bill. When they bring the food, you pay. Otherwise, you either miss your bus back to the ferry or you leave the money on the table, if you have cash. If not… good luck. 😊

· It is also a popular day cruise from the nearby islands (Paros and Naxos, for example) and many ferries arrive at the same time

· The magical sunsets of Oia can only be seen if you book the 2 day trip

· There is no time for swimming, unless you dismiss the Fira walk and take the caldera cruise

· People complaint of how smelly it can be, especially during July and August

· If you are not on time for the bus pick-up to the port and you don’t answer your phone, you will be left on Santorini. Make sure you provide a contact phone number where you can be reached, have roaming enabled, your phone on ringing mode (not silent or vibrate), enough battery (bring an external one) and answer incoming calls that start with +30 (Greece country code). Remember that the ferry does not wait for you 😊

· Not suitable for people with motion or sea sickness, mobility issues and medical conditions that can be a risk in the heat (heart conditions, diabetes, etc). Also, not recommended after a heavy night (you know, more margaritas or Mythos than necessary on the night before), lack of sleep, heavy breakfast, for pregnant women and very small children.

· Speaking of children, they can get bored very easily on the ferry and they have to be supervised all the time

· July and August are extremely hot months. If there is a heatwave, even worse. Also, Fira and Oia being on top of the hill, there is little to no breeze on the streets. On the other hand, Meltemi can be a pain.

As I said, this is the feedback I received from several people I spoke to. Now, you decide if it’s worth it or not. 😊 

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