28th of October – The day of the big “No” – Ημέρα του όχι

28th of October or  Όχι day is celebrated all over Greece, in Cyprus (the southern part) and all over the world, especially in countries with very large Greek communities (U.S. and Australia for example).

This day is the second national day of Greece, after 25th of March (Independence day).

On 28th of October 1940, around 3 a.m., the Italian ambassador presented Ioannis Metaxas, the Greek prime minister of the time, the ultimatum provided by Mussolini: to allow Axis forces to enter Greek territory and occupy “strategic locations” or face war. It is said that Metaxas answered with a simple όχι (No!). However, during those days, the official language of diplomacy was French and the actual answer was:  “Alors, c’est la guerre!” (Then it is war!). This statement’s outcome was the Italian troops stationed in Albania attacking the Greek border at 5:30 a.m. and the beginning of Greece’s participation in WWII. In the morning of 28th of October, the Greeks took out the streets and regardless of their political view they shouted “όχι!”.

In Crete, on this day is also commemorated the Battle of Crete by laying flowers at the Monument with the same name in Georgiadis Park.

The Monument to the Battle of Crete
The Monument to the Battle of Crete

Every year there are parades organized in all major cities (Chania, Rethymno, Agios Nikolaos, Ierapetra, Sitia), the biggest one being held in Heraklion. It starts at the Monument to the Battle of Crete, then it stops at Liberty Square (Plateia Eleftherias) where flowers are laid, follows Averof Boulevard up to Plateia Kornarou and then Evans Boulevard up to Kainourgia Porta (Kamara). It is a very safe family event when you can experience the truly Cretan and Greek patriotic spirit. In smaller cities or villages, there is a mass held in the memory of those who fought and fell in the war and flowers are laid at the statues of the fallen heroes. 

Heraklion parade route
Heraklion parade route

The parade usually starts at 11 am and lasts for a couple of hours. During this time, you will hear in the speakers which are placed in the city the history of the events (in Greek). 

The parade is organized in groups, all of them having a flag bearer and following a specific order, although this might not be the same every year. This is the order from 2023, when I was in Heraklion and attended the parade: 

1. Local authorities – mayor, president of the region and other important political figures

2. Greek Red Cross

3. Coast guard 

4. Fire department

5. Police 

6. Student parade (from elementary to high school and universities) 

7. Military 

I was having goosebumps when I was hearing the history of this day and when I saw the Cretans how proud they were walking bearing the national and local flags, in their traditional costumes. It was an amazing cultural experience for me, as a tourist.

Cretan women and men in their traditional costumes
Cretan women and men in their traditional costumes

What to expect on this day:

· Shops and supermarkets closed, as well as small family businesses. It’s a public holiday in Greece

· Streets and main boulevards closed for cars, scooters and other vehicles, especially in city centers

· Very crowded places, especially along the parade itinerary. Everyone wants to take pictures or videos

· Free entrance to all archaeological sites and museums owned and managed by the Ministry of Culture: Knossos, Phaistos, Gortyna, Museum of Archaeology, Malia to name a few

· Restaurants and bars are open, especially in tourist areas

· If the weather is still good, locals would go to the beach so expect them to be busy too

· Public transport runs on a limited schedule (Sunday or Public Holiday schedule) and all buses that pass through city centers are diverted. Expect higher waiting times.

· It marks the beginning of the “closing of the summer season”

If you happen to be in Crete on this day, remember to say χρόνια πολλά (chronia polla) after kalimera. It means “many years to come” in Greek, but in English is usually translated as “happy b-day”. Enjoy the day the way the Cretans do, admire their beautiful traditional costumes (I will write about them later) and blend in.

Tip: the best place to watch the parade is at Plateia Kornarou. If you have accommodation at Raise, you hit the jackpot. Otherwise, go to Kainourgia Porta, on the city walls 🙂 

Ζήτω η Ελλάδα! Ζήτω το Όχι!

Crowns laid at the statue in Plateia Eleftherias (Liberty Square)
Crowns laid at the statue in Plateia Eleftherias (Liberty Square)

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