Rethymno was the place where we stayed when I first came to Crete. It was love at first sight.
Why did we choose it? Well, I had Balos and Elafonissi on my list, therefore we needed a place pretty close to them, as we landed on Heraklion airport (in 2020, flights to Chania were once a week and we could stay only 4 nights). Also, most of the hotels were closed, as travel restrictions were at their highest peak (tests, masks, social distancing, you know the drill) and we barely found one with available rooms here.
Needless to say, Rethymno stole my heart. For the past 3 years I went to visit it again, every time I had the chance. I have seen and felt its vibe in all seasons (late September, mid-August and early March and December) and every time it made fall in love with it even more.
Rethymno as a settlement dates back to the Minoan times but today’s look is thanks to the Venetian rule. It’s old town, known as Palia Poli, was built by the Venetians and is one of the best preserved ones in Crete (together with Chania and Heraklion). It is also an important cultural center in Crete, as you can find several museums, University of Crete (it is a major student city) and sport clubs (football, water polo, basketball and volleyball).
Being one of the most important touristic places in Crete, situated almost halfway between Heraklion and Chania, it has a large selection of hotels and airbnbs. The main hotels are located on the promenade, 2 mins walk to its large beach. In the city center you can find a lot of airbnbs in historical buildings, most of them with “the antique touch”, very comfy and charming.
Tips and tricks:
· It’s extremely crowded in the summer. I was there in mid-August and I had to wait for a table approx. 20 mins.
· Avoid tourist traps! Don’t go for lunch or dinner in the Venetian harbour! I am saying this from a “sort of local” perspective. The food is overpriced, not so good (trust me, I was fooled as well) and DO NOT ACCEPT suggestions from the waiters that are not in the menu (unless you want to pay 60 euros for a dinner… per person)
· Eat at the tavernas on the narrow streets, where you hear that people speak Greek.
· Ask for a carafe of house wine. It is cheaper than a bottle and very good.
· Be careful when walking in the harbour. The place is narrow (because of the tables from the restaurants), there is no safety fence and you might easily fall into the water. Pay attention to other pedestrians and especially to small children, that like to run around unsupervised.
· If you sit at a table in the Venetian harbour, pay attention to your belongings. Being a highly crowded and tourist area, it also full of beggars (especially children), pickpockets and “flower ladies”. The latter will just walk between tables and place a flower (usually a red rose) in front of you, especially if they see a couple. It is not for free, you have to give them money. They will insist, once the flower has been put on your table and they can get aggressive. Try not to make eye contact and say OHI! as clear as you can. This category of people are not from Crete ☹
· Be careful with your belongings in crowded areas, pickpockets are everywhere
· During summer months, the area of the harbour can be extremely hot, as it is sheltered from the sea breeze. It’s like a sauna
· The beach is sandy, but you need special shoes if you want to go for a swim. There is a line of rocks and they can easily damage your feet
· The seabed deepens abruptly in some places, so pay attention, especially if you can’t swim
· High waves and strong wind are common in the area, please respect the red flag and the lifeguard’s orders. They can save your life, literally
· Each beach has its own rules: at some, you pay for the sunbeds. Some offer them for free, but you have to buy drinks from their beach bar. Some have discounts at sunbed prices between certain hours, early in the morning or late afternoon.
· Restaurants and café bars along the promenade allow you to use their toilet for free, as long as you are using their part of the beach and paid for sunbeds or drinks. However, you are strictly forbidden to enter the restaurants only in bikini/swimsuit. I mean, people have lunch there. I don’t want to see chest hair and beer belly while I am enjoying my seafood plate
Rethymno is a “all year round” destination, not only in the summer months.
There are a lot of things to do here, such as:
· Get lost on the narrow streets, with their Italian vibe

· Have a coffee or traditional food at a family taverna

· Go to the Venetian Harbour and walk to the lighthouse or take a day trip with the “Pirates ship”

· Walk along the beautiful promenade and enjoy an ice-cream or a coffee
· Go to Fortezza at sunset. It’s a must!

· Enjoy your summer days at the beach, sipping a cocktail or a fresh juice

· Visit the museums, the mosques

· Go to a restaurant that offers a traditional Cretan evening (food and show)

· Go to Arkadi Monastery, Margarites Village, Melidoni Cave and Ancient Eleftherna site.
· Go on a day trip to Balos or Elafonisi
